For a change, my first concern of the morning is not boiling water for coffee or digging a cat holeInstead, I walk over to the general store, pay for another night of tent camping and get some coffee and packaged junk food. A big orange van has just arrived at the campground to receive a group of dirt bikers that will be living here for a day or two.
Date: May 01, 2008, 11h08
Instead, I walk over to the general store, pay for another night of tent camping and get some coffee and packaged junk food to nibble on (cinnamon rolls, apple turnover, blueberry frozen juice bar, Arizona iced tea).
A big orange van has just arrived at the campground to receive a group of dirt bikers that will be living here for a day or two.
I haven't chosen a destination yet for today's ride, so I go for a walk to look at some of Nipton's buildingsThis antique tin-clad shed sits on a raised partial foundation.
Date: May 01, 2008, 11h10
This antique tin-clad shed sits on a raised partial foundation.
This old roadside building at Nipton looks like it may have been a store at one timeThe wooden-plank sidewalk adds an old-west effect.
Date: May 01, 2008, 11h13
The wooden-plank sidewalk adds an old-west effect.
This trailer-like building looks to be a former residenceThe modern electrical mast suggests that this building may have been recently inhabited.
Date: May 01, 2008, 11h16
The modern electrical mast suggests that this building may have been recently inhabited.
The old Nipton school house is a building worth savingThe construction appears to be concrete or stucco.
Date: May 01, 2008, 11h17
The construction appears to be concrete or stucco.
Just across the road from the Nipton General Store along the train tracks is a rock and gravel display yardThe materials being promoted originate from the Lucky Dutchman Mine near Las Vegas.
Date: May 01, 2008, 11h21
The materials being promoted originate from the Lucky Dutchman Mine near Las Vegas.
The Hotel Nipton bed-and-breakfast cactus garden is always worth a walk-throughHowever, after a week of desert camping and enjoying the random, natural environment, I find I don't have a really strong need to see these plants that I like arranged in aesthetically pleasing patterns.
Date: May 01, 2008, 11h27
However, after a week of desert camping and enjoying the random, natural environment, I find I don't have a really strong need to see these plants that I like arranged in aesthetically pleasing patterns.
While in my tent choosing my afternoon ride, the dirt-bike tour group members arrive at Nipton in a cloud of noiseIt looks like a lot of fun, but I'm seeking quiet and hope to avoid them while out on my afternoon ride. So I listen while the tour guide explains the route of the next leg of their trip, which will include the old Mojave Road.
Date: May 01, 2008, 12h58
There are a dozen or so dirt-bikers arriving from somewhere and it looks like a lot of fun. However, I'm looking for quiet and hope to avoid them while out on my afternoon ride.
So I listen intently while the tour guide explains to the group the route of the next leg of the trip, which will include the old Mojave Road.
OK, I've finally chosen a ride route for today on the power-line road above Nipton, starting at the Nevada borderI fill my Camelbak and a water bottle at the outdoor sink at the Nipton campground, and away we go.
Date: May 01, 2008, 13h46
I fill my Camelbak and a water bottle at the outdoor sink at the Nipton campground, and away we go.
I've ridden a few segments of that power-line road during previous Mojave National Preserve trips, but this segment between Nipton and the Castle Peaks area will be new to me.
I start the climb up the hill away from Nipton toward the Nevada borderIt's so easy riding up a hill without the weight of all my gear, even with a hangover!
Date: May 01, 2008, 13h59
It's so easy riding up a hill without the weight of all my gear, even with a hangover!
Three miles up the hill of Nipton Road, I reach the "Welcome to Nevada" sign that makes a perfect tourist photoHopefully, the all the bullet holes in the Nevada welcome sign are not a message from the Nevada Commission on Tourism. I'll probably only be in Nevada for half an hour or so.
Date: May 01, 2008, 14h15
Hopefully, the all the bullet holes in the Nevada welcome sign are not a message from the Nevada Commission on Tourism. I'll probably only be in Nevada for half an hour or so.
The views back down to Nipton and across Ivanpah Valley from the Nevada State line are superbI lurk here for a few minutes to enjoy the views from about 600 feet above Nipton.
Date: May 01, 2008, 14h16
I lurk here for a few minutes to enjoy the views from about 600 feet above Nipton.
I ride another half mile beyond the Nevada State line and then turn south on this dirt road with a cattleguardI'll stay on this road, just for half a mile, until I reach the power-line road at the base of the hills ahead. The New York Mountains sit in the background.
Date: May 01, 2008, 14h29
I'll stay on this road, just for half a mile, until I reach the power-line road at the base of the hills ahead. The New York Mountains sit in the background.
I see that I'm approaching a mining area with red soil that is not on my map and may still be activeI turn right here on the lesser road to reach the power-line road a quarter-mile away.
Date: May 01, 2008, 14h38
I turn right here on the lesser road to reach the power-line road a quarter-mile away.
Here I am at the top of the gravelly power-line road, and I'll descend this road about four miles to the train tracksIf you strain your eyes, you might be able to see that this road continues straight ahead for dozens of miles and over the next hill (which is actually part of Cima Dome).
Date: May 01, 2008, 14h41
If you strain your eyes, you might be able to see that this road continues straight ahead for dozens of miles and over the next hill (which is actually part of Cima Dome).
Nipton is still visible a few miles away down belowI'm just high enough up that there are a few small yuccas and barrel cacti growing here, neither of which grow down the hill at Nipton.
Date: May 01, 2008, 14h42
I'm just high enough up that there are a few small yuccas and barrel cacti growing here, neither of which grow down the hill at Nipton.
Loose rock is the dominant surface on the upper portion of the power-line roadIt makes for slow riding, even in the downhill direction!
Date: May 01, 2008, 14h46
It makes for slow riding, even in the downhill direction!
I pass one of those little "Entering Mojave National Preserve" signs that are used on less-travelled routesThis also means that I'm reentering California after my brief visit to Nevada.
Date: May 01, 2008, 14h50
This also means that I'm reentering California after my brief visit to Nevada.
I notice a Wilderness marker and a closed roadMaybe that's an abandoned mine or some other point of interest up at the end of the closed road, so I stash my bike in a gulley and go for a short walk to find out.
Date: May 01, 2008, 14h56
Maybe that's an abandoned mine or some other point of interest up at the end of the closed road, so I stash my bike in a gulley and go for a short walk to find out.
(Bicycles are prohibited in Wilderness areas.)
Off in the distance further down the power-line road, I see wafting trails of dustThis must be the dirt-bike tour group heading back to Nipton after their trek over part of the Mojave Road.
Date: May 01, 2008, 14h57
This must be the dirt-bike tour group heading back to Nipton after their trek over part of the Mojave Road.
Up the closed road, I come across small piles of mine tailingsIt doesn't look like too much activity took place here.
Date: May 01, 2008, 15h01
It doesn't look like too much activity took place here.
Now the dust trails from the dirt bikes are soaring across the Ivanpah Valley belowThey're probably on Nipton-Brant Road: the road that follows the train tracks to Nipton.
Date: May 01, 2008, 15h02
They're probably on Nipton-Brant Road: the road that follows the train tracks to Nipton.
A fire ring up above the mine tailings doesn't look like it has been used in quite a whileThe wide open view of the Ivanpah Valley makes this a decent campsite, but the view is marred somewhat by the power lines.
Date: May 01, 2008, 15h04
The wide open view of the Ivanpah Valley makes this a decent campsite, but the view is marred somewhat by the power lines.
The remnants of an old road climb a little further up the hillI figure I might as well walk up to see if there's anything to be discovered.
Date: May 01, 2008, 15h05
I figure I might as well walk up to see if there's anything to be discovered.
The road ends at the top of the hill where the soil is a rich red colourHowever, the little canyon in the background looks interesting, so I'll go check it out.
Date: May 01, 2008, 15h08
However, the little canyon in the background looks interesting, so I'll go check it out.
This little canyon feels very remote even though it's not far from the busy roadThere are so many little canyons out here like this one that probably rarely see people. I hike maybe a quarter of a mile up the canyon and then turn around and head back to the power-line road and my bike.
Date: May 01, 2008, 15h14
There are so many little canyons out here like this one that probably rarely see people. I hike maybe a quarter of a mile up the canyon and then turn around and head back to the power-line road and my bike.
More rough road along the power lines above NiptonDrainage from the adjacent hills crosses the road in many places, but this is the deepest wash-out in the road so far.
Date: May 01, 2008, 15h44
Drainage from the adjacent hills crosses the road in many places, but this is the deepest wash-out in the road so far.
This antique sign has seen better daysFrom what I can discern, this is a "Danger: use this road at your own risk" sign.
Date: May 01, 2008, 15h46
From what I can discern, this is a "Danger: use this road at your own risk" sign.
A little further down the power-line road, a distant black hill gets my attentionIt looks like a lava outcrop, but this isn't an area of lava flows. It's probably only a mile or so away, but I decide not to do the hike over to it (which I'll likely regret later).
Date: May 01, 2008, 15h57
It looks like a lava outcrop, but this isn't an area of lava flows. It's probably only a mile or so away, but I decide not to do the hike over to it (which I'll likely regret later).
I hate to admit it, but I still have some headache from last night's beer and the hot sun isn't helping any, no matter how much water I drink. Under normal circumstances, water cures most woes.
At the bottom of the hill, the power-line road passes through an old ranch fenceThe train tracks that head northeast (right) to Nipton are just beyond.
Date: May 01, 2008, 16h18
The train tracks that head northeast (right) to Nipton are just beyond.
The power-line road goes right under the train tracksThe concrete berm on the right makes it clear that this road also serves as a drainage channel during water events.
Date: May 01, 2008, 14h19
The concrete berm on the right makes it clear that this road also serves as a drainage channel during water events.
I ride the Nipton-Brant Road two miles along the train tracks to get back to NiptonSigns warn that this road is unmaintained, and it is washboarded, but it's no worse (right now at least) than some of the maintained dirt roads in Mojave National Preserve.
Date: May 01, 2008, 16h38
Signs warn that this road is unmaintained, and it is washboarded, but it's no worse (right now at least) than some of the maintained dirt roads in Mojave National Preserve.
Resting at my tent at Nipton: the pinkish glow of the desert sunset is always a welcome end of the dayA car is parked at the tent cabin across from my tent; I won't be alone tonight.
Date: May 01, 2008, 19h06
A car is parked at the tent cabin across from my tent; I won't be alone tonight.
Some of that pink light spills across the hills in the background that I visited this afternoonThe other tent cabins at Nipton are occupied tonight by members of the dirt-bike tour.
Date: May 01, 2008, 19h15
The other tent cabins at Nipton are occupied tonight by members of the dirt-bike tour.
The sun is going down and it's time for another juicy hamburger at the Nipton caféThe café turns out to be quite busy as the entire dirt-bike group is having supper there right now. I end up chatting with a couple of women who are in the area on research projects relating to bats and kangaroo rats.
Date: May 01, 2008, 19h35
The café turns out to be quite busy as the entire dirt-bike group is having supper there right now. I end up chatting with a couple of women who are in the area on research projects relating to bats and kangaroo rats.
Tonight is laundry night, since I didn't get to it last night because of the festivitiesNipton often ends up on my bike-camping trips because of the general store, of course, but also because it's one of the few places in the area with laundry facilities.
Date: May 01, 2008, 20h59
Nipton often ends up on my bike-camping trips because of the general store, of course, but also because it's one of the few places in the area with laundry facilities.
Inside the Nipton bathrooms: I end up not soaking in the outdoor hot tub after all, but I do take a shower in the quonset hutThe floor here is dirt with wooden slats around the shower stalls. The bathroom has electricity too, so I get to recharge my cell-phone.
Date: May 01, 2008, 23h00
The floor here is dirt with wooden slats around the shower stalls. The bathroom has electricity too, so I get to recharge my cell-phone.
One of the shower stalls at NiptonI've always camped overnight when passing through Nipton, but an even cheaper option is to just stop here and take a shower, which costs about five dollars.
Date: May 01, 2008, 23h01
I've always camped overnight when passing through Nipton, but an even cheaper option is to just stop here and take a shower, which costs about five dollars.
The temperature has really cooled down during the evening, so I don my sweater and long underwear and wear them to bed in my sleeping bag.
The wind has died down, so the land basks in silence tonight. Even the crowd of dirt bikers is quiet and they retreat to their sleeping quarters a bit after 21 h.
However, the couple staying in the tent cabin across from me has a baby that cries from time to time and wakes me during the night. This is why I try not to spend too much time in developed campgrounds during my trips.