Making morning coffee at Keystone Canyon Beautiful morning, beautiful location. It was cold overnight, so the warmth from the morning sun shining on the tent felt good. I was up early, around 7h, but managed to fall back asleep for a while. Date: May 03, 2008, 10h11 Beautiful morning, beautiful location. It was cold overnight, so the warmth from the morning sun shining on the tent felt good. I was up early, around 7h, but managed to fall back asleep for a while.

There's almost no wind this morning, so all is silent and peaceful.
Today's day hike will take me to an old mine site not far away, below the crags of New York Mountain in the distance at right Breakfast is two cups of strong coffee, Maryann's "rice and tofu in a ginger-miso broth" (delicious), granola, tamari almonds, dried apricots, dried pears and chili-lime cashews. I'm glad to be eating backpacker food again. Date: May 03, 2008, 10h14 Breakfast is two cups of strong coffee, Maryann's "rice and tofu in a ginger-miso broth" (delicious), granola, tamari almonds, dried apricots, dried pears and chili-lime cashews. I'm glad to be eating backpacker food again after eating junk food for breakfast back at Nipton.

On the top of the closer hill on the left sits the former Keystone Mine, which I won't be visiting today.
First, I go for a short walk around my Keystone Canyon campsite A rocky road behind my campsite, which I didn't notice last night, leads to another campsite in a hidden hollow just behind the juniper trees. Date: May 03, 2008, 10h16 A rocky road behind my campsite, which I didn't notice last night, leads to another campsite in a hidden hollow just behind the juniper trees.
I prepare my supplies for the day and begin the hike up Keystone Canyon My day pack includes flashlight, water filter, epipens (in case of yellow-jacket sting), sweater, three 1.5-litre water bottles (one full, two empty), camera batteries, energy bars and dried apricots. I'm also wearing my two-litre Camelbak, full of water. Date: May 03, 2008, 12h24 I wanted to explore Keystone Canyon during my year 2000 Mojave National Preserve trip, but I ended up on the nearby road to Trio Mines instead.

My day pack includes flashlight, water filter, epipens (in case of yellow-jacket sting), sweater, three 1.5-litre water bottles (one full, two empty), camera batteries, energy bars and dried apricots. I'm also wearing my two-litre Camelbak, full of water.
White primroses and orange desert-mallow flowers along Keystone Canyon Road I listen to the sound of my footsteps as I walk, one of the few sounds here, other than the occasional flitting of a bird. Date: May 03, 2008, 12h33 I listen to the sound of my footsteps as I walk, one of the few sounds here, other than the occasional flitting of a bird.
I come across another campsite with a fire ring near the road I didn't walk up the road quite far enough yesterday to find this one, but I think I prefer my campsite anyway. Date: May 03, 2008, 12h38 I didn't walk up the road quite far enough yesterday to find this one, but I think I prefer my campsite anyway.
The road shares Keystone Canyon with a wash and crosses it several times Consequently, the road is generally washed out and requires four-wheel drive and high clearance. Date: May 03, 2008, 12h39 Consequently, the road is generally washed out and requires four-wheel drive and high clearance.
Along this stretch, the road is actually in the wash I'd probably not think that this is a road if it weren't for the tire tracks here, and the fact that my maps show it. Date: May 03, 2008, 12h41 I'd probably not think that this is a road if it weren't for the tire tracks here, and the fact that my maps show it.
Road users have placed rocks in this gully to facilitate passage over it One of my older maps shows this part of the road as being inside a Wilderness area and therefore closed to vehicles. However, the new map that I purchased last week at Kelso Depot visitor centre corrects that error. Date: May 03, 2008, 12h47 One of my older maps shows this part of the road as being inside a Wilderness area and therefore closed to vehicles. However, the new map that I purchased last week at Kelso Depot visitor centre corrects that error.
I'm delighted to discover the moist remnants of a recent trickle of water in the middle of the road I'm still at least half a mile away from Keystone Spring, so this is a positive sign that there may be water at the source itself. Date: May 03, 2008, 12h51 I'm still at least half a mile away from Keystone Spring, so this is a positive sign that there may be water at the source itself.
The road is almost non-existent in this part of Keystone Canyon Tire tracks climb over the earth along the wash to avoid the big rocks. Date: May 03, 2008, 12h55 Tire tracks climb over the earth along the wash to avoid the big rocks.
A fork in the road! The right fork rises up a hill toward Live Oak Canyon and Bronze Mine Spring, while the left fork (my route) continues toward Keystone Spring and New York Mountain. Date: May 03, 2008, 12h57 The right fork rises up a hill toward Live Oak Canyon and Bronze Mine Spring, while the left fork (my route) continues toward Keystone Spring and New York Mountain. Not visible in the photo are the tire tracks which leave Keystone Canyon and rise up the road toward Live Oak Canyon.
I spot an old cistern along the road Keystone Spring is up the hill a quarter mile or so, so I'm guessing that the broken pipe leads to the spring. Date: May 03, 2008, 13h00 Keystone Spring is up the hill a quarter mile or so, so I'm guessing that the broken pipe leads to the spring.
Another fork in the barely discernable road The right fork heads up toward New York Mountain (which I'll follow shortly), but the left fork leads to Keystone Spring, where I hope to find water in a few minutes. Date: May 03, 2008, 13h02 The right fork heads up toward New York Mountain (which I'll follow shortly), but the left fork leads to Keystone Spring, where I hope to find water in a few minutes.
Ah, there's the pipe that presumably leads up to Keystone Spring The road here is faint in places, so it's occasionally easier to follow the pipe than to look for the road. Date: May 03, 2008, 13h08 The road here is faint in places, so it's occasionally easier to follow the pipe than to look for the road.
I stumble across these little red flowers that I'm not familiar with This might be a scarlet gilia (ipomopsis), not sure. Date: May 03, 2008, 13h09 This might be a scarlet gilia (ipomopsis), not sure.
The old pipe continues along the ground along the old road to Keystone Spring There's really not much left of the road! Date: May 03, 2008, 13h10 There's really not much left of the road!
Keystone Spring? I've read that Keystone Spring sits in a meadow, so this water dripping out of a pipe must be it. It's really not much. I'll walk around a bit to see if there's more water than this. Date: May 03, 2008, 13h14 I've read that Keystone Spring sits in a meadow, so this water dripping out of a pipe must be it. It's really not much. I'll walk around a bit to see if there's more water than this.
Further up the meadow, I reach a hole filled with water After a bit more walking around, I conclude that this must be Keystone Spring itself. It's still not much, but it is more than that tiny trickle that I discovered just below. Date: May 03, 2008, 13h23 After a bit more walking around, I conclude that this must be Keystone Spring itself. It's still not much, but it is more than that tiny trickle that I discovered just below.
The water here at Keystone Spring doesn't look good, but... I've previously filtered uglier water than this which turned out to taste great. Water filters do an amazing job. Date: May 03, 2008, 13h15 I've previously filtered uglier water than this which turned out to taste great. Water filters do an amazing job.
Looking closer, Keystone Spring seems to be semi-stagnant Keystone Spring has probably shut down for the summer and is no longer flowing; what's here is quite possibly leftover water from a few weeks ago. Date: May 03, 2008, 15h49 Keystone Spring has probably shut down for the summer and is no longer flowing; what's here is quite possibly leftover water from a few weeks ago.
Bugs abound at Keystone Spring, as happy to have water as I am My main concern is the many yellow jackets that are buzzing around the water. I'm highly allergic to those things. A yellow-jacket sting sent me to the emergency room last summer, but there are no emergency rooms in this part of the Mojave Desert. Date: May 03, 2008, 15h50 My main concern is the many yellow jackets that are buzzing around the water. I'm highly allergic to those things. A yellow-jacket sting sent me to the emergency room last summer, but there are no emergency rooms in this part of the Mojave Desert.
I cautiously approach the spring to test the yellow jackets, and then pump water to fill my Camelbak and water bottles Fortunately, the yellow jackets are ignoring me, as is often the case when I'm pumping water at springs (I guess they're too busy). The water is cool and tastes really good. Date: May 03, 2008, 13h32 Fortunately, the yellow jackets are ignoring me, as is often the case when I'm pumping water at springs (I guess they're too busy). Filtering natural spring water from the land always makes me feel closer to my environment.

The water is cool and tastes great after filtering.

It is a bit odd to be in a grassy meadow in the desert. Right now I feel more like I'm on one of my trips in the dry grasslands of Henry Coe State Park than in the Mojave Desert.
My water supply refilled, I walk back down the hill from Keystone Spring and hike up the road toward New York Mountain The old road is visible here in the form of a rock bed. No tire tracks here. Date: May 03, 2008, 14h14 The old road is visible here in the form of a rock bed. No tire tracks here.
After a bit more climbing, I turn around to see that I've risen quite a bit during the last half mile Nice views past the hills to the distant Castle Peaks area. Date: May 03, 2008, 14h24 Nice views past the hills to the distant Castle Peaks area.
I continue hiking up what's left of the old road up Keystone Canyon With all the big rocks strewn about, it's hard to imagine that this space ever served as a road. Date: May 03, 2008, 14h26 With all the big rocks strewn about, it's hard to imagine that this space ever served as a road.
A little higher, I approach a face-like rock formation in the foreground at my left Two widely set eyes frame a flattened pug-like nose. I'm sure the natives who once inhabited these lands had special names for rocks like these. Date: May 03, 2008, 14h28 Two widely set eyes frame a flattened pug-like nose. I'm sure the natives who once inhabited these lands had special names for rocks like these.
I get my first view of the old mine site at the bottom of New York Mountain From here, it looks like a massive pile of earth. Date: May 03, 2008, 14h30 From here, it looks like a massive pile of earth.
The eroding old mine site at the top of Keystone Canyon sits just a few hundred feet below the peak of New York Mountain It wouldn't be a long climb, mileage-wise, to get up to the ridge, but it would be slow-going since it's fairly steep. Date: May 03, 2008, 14h48 It wouldn't be a long climb, mileage-wise, to get up to the ridge, but it would be slow-going since it's fairly steep.
It appears that rock, silt and wood debris tumbles continually down into Keystone Canyon from the old mine site Somewhere around that pile of earth is a mine shaft. Date: May 03, 2008, 14h34 Somewhere around that pile of earth is a mine shaft.
Teal-blue rocks are scattered around the mine site while "Sleeping-head Rock" keeps watch from the right side "Sleeping-head Rock," as I call it, looks like a side-profile carving of a head with the exaggerated eyes, nose and lips of a cartoon character. Fred Flintstone? Date: May 03, 2008, 14h40 "Sleeping-head Rock," as I call it, looks like a side-profile carving of a head with the exaggerated eyes, nose and lips of a cartoon character. Fred Flintstone?
A trickle of rusty, contaminated water exudes from a tunnel in the hillside above the mine tailings The water isn't pretty, but the big shade tree (an oak?) is. Many chaparral plants normally found near the California coast grow as a "botanical island" in this highland area of the Mojave Desert. Date: May 03, 2008, 14h40 The water isn't pretty, but the big shade tree (an oak?) is. Many chaparral plants normally found near the California coast grow as a "botanical island" in this highland area of the Mojave Desert.
The old rails from the mine tunnel end at the edge of the tailings pile Looks like a suicide gesture to me. "Sleeping-head Rock" is seen again here at the right. Awesome views across the desert to the Castle Peaks area from here. Date: May 03, 2008, 14h42 Looks like a suicide gesture to me. "Sleeping-head Rock" is seen again here at the right. Awesome views across the desert to the Castle Peaks area from here.
I climb a bit up the slope around the mine up and consider going all the way up to the New York Mountain ridge The slope is quite slippery, but is probably not very risky for a more-experienced hill climber. Since I'm hiking solo and there's nobody around (and my cell phone has no reception up here), I decide not to continue any further. Date: May 03, 2008, 14h58 The slope is quite slippery, but is probably not very risky for a more-experienced hill climber. Since I'm hiking solo and there's nobody around (and my cell phone has no reception up here), I decide not to continue any further.
The views from up here are great, and I hate to turn back, but I'm turning back anyway I use twigs and trees to brace myself as I climb back down to the mine site below. Date: May 03, 2008, 14h58 I use twigs and trees to brace myself as I climb back down to the mine site below.
I start the walk back down the old road to my campsite at the bottom of Keystone Canyon Of course, I'm enjoying the views all the way down. Date: May 03, 2008, 15h15 Of course, I'm enjoying the views all the way down.
Here's a plant that I've never seen before It reminds me a bit of some kind of verbena. Date: May 03, 2008, 15h29 It reminds me a bit of some kind of verbena.
I'm down at the bottom of the big hill and in the main part of Keystone Canyon now I turn right for another short walk up to Keystone Spring to top off my water supply before heading back to camp. My two-litre Camelbak is almost empty again. Turning left here would take me back to my campsite. Date: May 03, 2008, 15h30 I turn right for another short walk up to Keystone Spring to top off my water supply before heading back to camp. My two-litre Camelbak is almost empty again. Turning left here would take me back to my campsite.
After refilling water at Keystone Spring again, I still have a bit more downhill on the old Keystone Canyon Road The tire tracks make me wonder if I have neighbours in the area this weekend that I haven't run into yet. Date: May 03, 2008, 16h05 The tire tracks make me wonder if I have neighbours in the area this weekend that I haven't run into yet.
The road in Keystone Canyon descends a little more The dark patches of earth on the hillside straight ahead stand out. Date: May 03, 2008, 16h07 The dark patches of earth on the hillside straight ahead stand out.
I'm down at the bottom of Keystone Canyon now and almost back home for the day Even though I'm up at 5300 feet here, it doesn't really feel that high because there are no open views down to the nearby lower desert areas. Date: May 03, 2008, 16h24 Even though I'm up at 5300 feet here, it doesn't really feel that high because there are no open views down to the nearby lower desert areas.
A few primroses bloom along Keystone Canyon Road a bit west of my campsite I remember seeing a single lonely primrose bloom during Xmas week near my campsite at Devil's Playground, in the lower area of Mojave National Preserve. Date: May 03, 2008, 16h25 I remember seeing a single lonely primrose bloom during Xmas week near my campsite at Devil's Playground, in the lower area of Mojave National Preserve.
Back at the tent, the job that awaits me is re-repairing my broken bike rack I could have hiked longer today, but I needed to return to camp and settle my mind by fixing (or trying to fix) the bike rack again. Date: May 03, 2008, 18h05 I could have hiked longer today, but I needed to return to camp and settle my mind by fixing (or trying to fix) the bike rack again.
I re-repair the broken bike rack by reinstalling my improvised brace under the rack, rather than on top of it The brace on the outside of the broken rack worked for a while, but the rack eventually started rubbing against the wheel again. Having the brace on the underside of the rack should prevent that from happening. Date: May 03, 2008, 17h57 The brace on the outside of the broken rack worked for a while, but the rack eventually started rubbing against the wheel again. Having the brace on the underside of the rack should prevent that from happening.

To my surprise, the great folks at Old Man Mountain bicycle racks replaced my broken rack after the trip, even though the damage was my fault from non-stop overloading well beyond the recommended capacity during years and hundreds of miles.
I take in the views of the surrounding hills while the sun goes down and I ponder my situation and exit strategy I'd like to spend another day hiking and exploring this area, but only two more nights in Mojave National Preserve remain before my trip ends. In case I run into more unforeseen problems, it's best that I begin the 75-mile trek back to Baker tomorrow. Date: May 03, 2008, 19h05 I'd like to spend another day hiking and exploring this area, but only two more nights in Mojave National Preserve remain before my trip ends. In case I run into more unforeseen problems, it's best that I begin the 75-mile trek back to Baker tomorrow.

This will leave me with more flexibility should my repair not prove to be stable and sufficient.

I don't intend to cover all that distance in a day, though I could if needed. After a few miles, I'll be back on smooth pavement again, but I'm really not sure at this point what my bike can and cannot tolerate.
Quite a few desert four o'clocks are blooming around my Keystone Canyon campsite These plants look too green and plump to be growing in the desert! Date: May 03, 2008, 19h06 These plants look too green and plump to be growing in the desert!
The last supper at Keystone Canyon Supper tonight is Backpacker Pantry's vegan Kathmandu Curry, a delicious and interestingly textured mixture of mostly potatoes and lentils. I follow up with some Trader Joe's beef jerky, tamari almonds, a bowl of miso soup with dulse and a bit of granola Date: May 03, 2008, 20h07 Supper tonight is Backpacker Pantry's vegan Kathmandu Curry, a delicious and interestingly textured mixture of mostly potatoes and lentils. Ryan, owner of Good Karma Vegan restaurant in San José, suggested that I try this and he's right, it's really good.

I follow up with some Trader Joe's beef jerky, tamari almonds, a bowl of miso soup with dulse and a bit of granola for dessert. Mmm.

Strong Mojave winds have picked up again this evening and it's thus quite noisy inside the flapping tent. As soon as the sun set, I had to put on full-length jeans and a sweater. Still, it's not as chilly as it was last night and I don't need to crawl inside my sleeping bag wearing my toque and windbreaker like last night.

I fall asleep easily in this beautiful place, but wake up a few times due to weird dreams.
Keystone Canyon hike as viewed in Google Earth Date: July 21, 2008, 21h06
Mojave National Preserve map: Day 11, day hike to Keystone Spring and Keystone Canyon mine Continue to day 12: Keystone Canyon to Sunrise Rock near Cima Dome, Mojave National Preserve. Date: July 23, 2008, 20h42 Continue to day 12: Keystone Canyon to Sunrise Rock near Cima Dome, Mojave National Preserve.
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