Day 6: Coyote Springs to Butcher Knife Canyon via Kelso Depot and Death Valley Mine Road, Mojave National Preserve
I haven't seen any people in the Coyote Springs area since leaving the pavement of Kelbaker Road two afternoons ago.
The day's bicycle travels include a bit of everything to keep things interesting and test my physical and psychological ability to switch from mileage-covering road cyclist to mountain biker to backpacker-like hiker dragging a 10-ton bike. 38.8 bicycle miles.
After a few miles of mostly ridable dirt and sand upon leaving Coyote Springs near 3200 feet, I get 8 miles of paved downhill highway biking on Kelbaker Road to Kelso Depot at 2100 feet. Then I will climb 14.5 miles of gentle uphill on paved Kelso-Cima Road to 3700 feet, followed by a couple of miles of steeper climbing on the paved part of Cedar Canyon Road to reach 4500 feet.
Mountain-bike mode and hike-a-biking alternate during the final slow, rolling, nine miles on sand and dirt roads to the old corral below lonely Butcher Knife Canyon at 4600 feet. I won't see any people after I leave the pavement of Cedar Canyon Road.
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Date: April 28, 2008, 09h00
Size: 43 items
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After another half hour, my two-litre Camelbak is empty again, so I take a break at a pull-out along Cedar Canyon Road
I just drank two litres of water in an hour and a half? Though a bit more than I expected, I guess it's a reasonable quantity given that it has been a very warm day and I've been pedalling uphill for the last few hours.
Date: April 28, 2008, 16h37
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I resume the climb up Cedar Canyon Road and stop to enjoy the view down the road from where I just came
I'm getting close to the top, which is only 2.4 miles from the bottom. The road rises almost 800 feet during that distance, so the temperature is dropping a little. Cool wisps in the breeze feel great after the earlier afternoon heat.
Date: April 28, 2008, 16h39
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A little higher up Cedar Canyon Road, the pavement ends, just like the sign says
The Mid Hills and New York Mountains are no longer so far away. One car and one fire truck (is there a fire somewhere?) pass me in this area, the only traffic I've seen on this road so far.
Date: April 28, 2008, 17h03
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I reach Death Valley Mine Road and turn left here to begin skirting around the west side of the New York Mountains
At this happy moment, I realize that I won't see any more pavement for the next couple of days. It will turn out that I won't see any people either during my time off-pavement in this area.
Date: April 28, 2008, 17h17
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Death Valley Mine Road winds around the base of the mountains
Despite the name, Death Valley Mine Road is in Mojave National Preserve, not Death Valley National Park. I'm feeling a bit pooped as I begin this phase of today's ride, but I'm inspired enough by the surroundings that I'm ready to ignore poopy feelings.
Date: April 28, 2008, 17h21
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The first mile or so of Death Valley Mine Road is rideable despite some sand on the road because it's a bit downhill
I still have about nine miles to go before I'll reach the bottom of Butcher Knife Canyon, all on dirt roads. The first 4.3 miles will be on this road, which will end at the old Cima Road and Death Valley Mine.
Date: April 28, 2008, 17h27
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It's not only sand here: rocky patches on Death Valley Mine Road provide quite a contrast to the slippery sandy segments
Suddenly I have too much traction instead of not enough. I remember these rocky stretches from when I rode here during my fall 2000 trip.
Date: April 28, 2008, 17h30
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I pass an old road that is now closed by Wilderness barriers
The lower south end of the New York Mountains sit in the background here.
Date: April 28, 2008, 17h31
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I arrive at the ruins of the old Thomas Place homestead
I have cell-phone reception here, so I change my outgoing message to inform callers of my whereabouts. I would linger here and explore some, but I still have several slow miles ahead of me before Butcher Knife Canyon.
Date: April 28, 2008, 17h43
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I'm starting to see some blooming sages in this area
The potent aroma of these salvia dorrii is a pleasure to the nose (to mine at least). Paradoxically, these intense blue flowers look grey and don't stand out at all until you're close to them.
Date: April 28, 2008, 17h49
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Low-growing banana yuccas are also frequent around here
Sometimes the blossoms are cream-coloured like these, while others are mostly a dark wine brown.
Date: April 28, 2008, 18h15
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The last mile or two of Death Valley Mine Road is very sandy in places, in addition to being slightly uphill
I keep losing momentum, so I resort to hiking the bike and enjoying the scenery. I'm surprised to find fresh tracks from two bicycles on this road, which are the first bicycle tracks I've ever noticed in Mojave National Preserve besides my own.
Date: April 28, 2008, 18h26
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A brilliant display of desert mallow flowers marks the end of Death Valley Mine Road; I'll turn right here on the old Cima Road
It has taken me about 1.5 hours at my leisurely pace to traverse the 4.3 miles of scenic Death Valley Mine Road. Across the road is an old sign; I'll go take a look at it.
Date: April 28, 2008, 18h44
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Well, the old sign isn't legible any more
I'm guessing that the sign had something to do with the old Death Valley Mine just up the road here. I'm headed toward the left end of the craggy New York Mountains ahead.
Date: April 28, 2008, 18h43
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I start dragging the bike up the old Cima Road, which is turning out to be really sandy
I pause to take in the sun setting behind me over Cima Dome, which I never seem to tire of looking at: that perfect slight bulge on the horizon.
Date: April 28, 2008, 18h47
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Ugh, the road is getting even sandier
If this deep sand continues, and it may, travel beyond here will be excruciatingly slow. It's already clear that I won't reach Butcher Knife Canyon, more than four miles away, by dark, so now the question is whether perhaps it's not a goal worth pursuing
Date: April 28, 2008, 18h51
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I look across the sand trap here and ponder the abandoned buildings at Death Valley Mine
I wish I had the time to explore this area; perhaps I should just call it a day and pull over somewhere nearby and set up camp.
Date: April 28, 2008, 18h52
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I figure I may as well continue onward a little further and see if the deep sand lets up
So far the sand is still a problem, but I'll be taking a road to the left that leaves the sandy wash after a mile or so. Maybe it's worth continuing that far to see if the next road is any better.
Date: April 28, 2008, 19h07
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